Slow Roast Shoulder of Lamb – The Slow Food Movement

Lamb shoulder is a cheaper cut of meat, it being much more muscly than other bits of it and so taking longer to cook. However, as with most things, the longer the road the better the end. Slow roasted lamb can be pulled apart with a fork, melts in your mouth and has a really deep, rich flavour. This is my default Sunday roast, it’s also my default “I’ve got a load of people to feed” dinner. We had 6 hungry mouths a couple of weeks ago and there was no trace left of it by the end!

The beauty of this recipe is the simplicity. A friend of mine was asking about it saying she wished she cooked more roasts but couldn’t be bothered with the hassle. This is the thing about this recipe; there is no hassle. 

Order a shoulder of lamb from your butcher. Tell them how many you’re feeding and they’ll give you the right amount – none of this overbuying in the supermarket to ensure you have enough – another reason why your butcher is not a scary thing, but in fact a God send. 

Rub the lamb with salt and olive oil, then wrap it in tin foil and put it in the oven for 6 hours at about 170 degrees. what’s better is if you can put it at a lower temp and cook it for longer. If you can cook it overnight then do… obviously the longer you’re cooking it for the lower your temperature needs to be. When in the oven just forget about it. 2 hours before you want to eat put your chopped veg and potatoes in around the lamb drizzled with olive oil and everything should be ready at the same time. For roasting potatoes and gravy tips go here Roast Potatoes and Gravy.

Slow roasting meat used to be a staple, ovens not being as powerful and meat not being as plentiful meant that by cooking slowly, every single part of the animal became edible and nothing was wasted from the tongue to the tail. 

Now slow roasting is a luxury. We appear to have an excess of everything except time and being able to dedicate six hours of your life to one project unheard of. This makes me sad, especially as you don’t have to do anything in those 6 hours cooking wise (apart from your veg but this is a mere blink in the scheme of it).

I am just as guilty of shoving a sandwich down my neck barely tasting it, while walking and chatting on my mobile, however I’d be lying if I said that I didn’t feel guilty and dissatisfied afterwards. A friend of mine is a nutritionist who  said that the number of people who go to see her to combat weight gain has rocketed, even in the two years she’s been practicing, she recommended a number of tips which required not changing the food you eat, but how you eat it. 

• TAKE YOUR TIME. By taking your time to focus on your food – no telly, no other distractions apart from conversation and a drink – your brain truly acknowledges that you’ve eaten and you won’t feel hungry again until you actually are. You also start taking notice of when you feel full…
• WHEN YOU FEEL FULL, STOP EATING. There is no harm in not finishing your plate. Have the rest for lunch the next day or for supper that day, but don’t force yourself to eat more than you need to…
• PORTION SIZE DOES MATTER. If you realise that you’re always full before you’ve finished your plate then give yourself smaller portions. We overeat massively in this country, it’s gluttony more than anything else; mostly we eat because it feels good and tastes nice, not because we’re hungry and are refuelling.
• EAT LESS EAT MORE. It’s as I (or Rachel Khoo) said with the cake, if you’re making a cake then for God’s sake make a good one and enjoy it. Enjoy the piece you have and then…that’s it. Enjoy. Not then go for a hour’s run feeling guilty about the cake experience. You had a slice of cake. If you know food is high in fat/calories/salt etc just don’t have very much of it, if it’s none of the above then eat as much as you like. 
• FOOD IS NOT EVIL. It used to be that people who said they’d been really naughty at the weekend had indulged in some activity bordering on or actually being completely illegal/immoral – class A drugs, binge drinking, questionable sex, questionable sex with a questionable partner etc etc. Now it refers to breaking diets, eating donuts and eating more than you should. That’s really, really sad. That people are looking at eating as something naughty and bad. The other day I heard a woman say “I really want a donut is that wrong? Isn’t that awful” I couldn’t contain myself as I turned round and said “No it isn’t, but the fact that you’re even asking, is.” She smiled and, I like to imagine, went and and promptly ate a donut. I don’t know whether she did though. Eating a donut isn’t wrong. Eating 5 is ill advised and eating nothing else pretty dangerous, however associating food with good and bad leads you down a road that is ultimately rather depressing.
• EXERCISE. No matter what everyone is trying to tell you, you CAN’T HAVE IT ALL. If you eat more calories than you burn off you put on weight. This is simple maths and if you want to lose weight you have to exercise. If you don’t want to lose weight you have to exercise. It keeps you strong, it keeps you fit and most of all it keeps you healthy. Thin doesn’t mean healthy, you can still have high cholesterol, brittle bones, weak muscles and any of the diseases that are associated with obesity, fat doesn’t mean unhealthy either, within reason obviously. It’s lifestyle that determines that – so rather than thinking about your weight think about your lifestyle instead and make changes there first. 

So I am championing the slow food movement the basics of which are:

• Take time out of your day to eat 3 meals where you sit relax and enjoy what you’ve chosen. If this is only 20 minutes each time that’s only an hour out of your day that you’re committing and we can all manage that.
• Cook with friends, inviting people over means that it becomes a social thing and much more enjoyable even if you’re a hesitant cook, get two friends over and ask them each to bring something. Then you’ve got a grand selection and sharing is always wonderful. It also gives you an excuse to see those people you should see more of. 
• Buy a recipe book by someone you like and once a week try out something you’ve never cooked before. It’s good fun and you’re learning new skills all the time. 
• Surround yourselves with people who will appreciate your cooking, best friends and hungry boyfriends/girlfriends are always willing participants I find and, unless you totally mess up the dish and it’s inedible they will never tell you it’s rubbish because they love you.

Vivre La Resistance! 

I LOVE RACHEL KHOO

The Crooked Well

There are so many websites dedicated to bringing you the best of London. Not for tourist hideaways that travel by word of mouth, normally prefixed by “I know this great little place…” Well, having lived in London and all over the city for nearly 5 years now, I have my fair share of these places – though none do I take more pleasure in sharing than The Crooked Well.

Tucked down a little street in South London’s bustling Camberwell, is something of a retreat from the world outside. The decor is simple and homely, the staff smiley, more than accomodating and, more than friendly, they’re my friends.

I decided it was definitely time they got a write up as I have eaten here once a month or so since they opened and tried any number of things on the menu all of which are deserving of accolades, so here it is; the hot ticket, standing room only.

The last time we visited I kicked off with a cocktail that has rather wonderfully (in the absence of any other name) been named after me. Boo’s Ruin, for I am Boo and it has been known to ruin me on a number of occasions, is a wonderful concoction and though not on their menu they made it for me anyway. They’re nice like that.

Take 2 shots of Vanilla Vodka, 1 shot of elderflower cordial, 1 shot of lemon juice and mix it all together over ice and then pour into a martini glass. Cut up a chilli and either A: run it round the rim, or B: stick it on a staw and wizzle it round in the drink. The result, something sweet, but not too sweet, sharp but not too sharp and with a lovely little kick. Here’s what’s left! 

We then went sat down with a bottle of red and looked at the always original and beautifully simple menu. Options this time included

A homemade scotch egg with an espresso cup of heinz tomato soup and pancetta (That one was very nearly the winner)

Guinea fowl, chicken and chestnut terrine, mango and pink peppercorn salsa

Smoked salmon, pickled cucumber, radish, cream cheese blini

Crisp salt & pepper baby squid,olive oil dressing (This won, remember my love of all things squid)

It was beautiful. Squid so lightly battered that it was beautifully crisp, but not heavy salty and sharp contrasting with the sweet squid. Didn’t even touch the sides. P ordered the same; we have this debate a lot, whether or not it’s right to order the same thing in restaurants. Order different things you can always share and as I often get food envy it’s always lovely to share and share alike. However as a friend of mine pointed out, you eat the same stuff at home, why should it be any different in a restaurant? I think it’s more being denied choice, why should I be limited to only one? If I have a willing partner in eating crime then I can double my dining experience! Selfish maybe, however I also consider it to be economical….

Mains came next.

P opted for seared hake, shrimp ravioli, buerre blanc & fennel ceviche whereas I went for duck breast, spinach & watercress puree, rhubarb, confit potato & thyme honey. Mio Dio.

The duck was pink and tender, the honey sauce and the salty puree worked beautifully with the rich dark meat. The rhubarb a wonderful addition, sweet and sharp that lightened the whole dish. I made it my mission to try to fit a bit of each food on my fork at the same time. Every bite was a pleasure and when it was over I was genuinely gutted. The ravioli was gorgeous too, or so I was told… I was denied a taste of this one, well it was more that by the time I wanted to try some, it was all gone!

Other dishes I’ve tried and loved have been their venison dish, where I discovered the pure joy that is white pudding, squid ink risotto that turned my mouth the most wonderful black colour, their steak which is so beautiful in its simplicity and just goes to show that bells and whistles mean nothing when the ingredients are high quality and just right. P and his friend N went for the house speciality of rabbit and bacon pie – made for sharing and delicious from nose to tail, from smell to scraping the bottom of the dish. They do a couple of sharing dishes along with this pie, a traditional fish pie and currently roast lamb, spiced aubergine,tzatziki & jus. 

The most wonderful thing about The Crooked Well, is that it doesn’t matter that I know them. Every single person is treated like a friend, not in a wanky, overly sugary way. In the manner that makes you feel welcome and appreciated, which, when you’ve had a shitty day at work is all the more important. It’s not just a restaurant it’s a place to meet friends for a drink after work, and mums and babies are welcome too in the mornings for coffee, a play area is even set up. It has made itself a real part of the community and I for one wouldn’t be without it.

So, if you’re looking for a place thats friendly and relaxed, but provides out of this world food and excellent service, or somewhere that provides occasional BYOB evenings, somewhere that gives fish and chips take out opportunities, has music evenings and is cool enough to be frequented by Florence (her of and the machine fame) Peter Blake and all sorts of other well known and respected faces, but most of all a place run by wonderful people who just want to give you a lovely evening/lunch time/drink/full on party, there is nowhere better, north or south of the river.

These links lead you to everything you need to know http://www.thecrookedwell.com

you’ll also find them on facebook (check out cool events etc they’re putting on) and twitter. It’s not just me that loves them either…

http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2011/aug/14/jay-rayner-crooked-well-camberwell

https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Crooked-Well/202481859786147

@crookedwell

Valencia

So, P and I jetted off to a city drenched in sunshine; Valencia in Spain. We were there for a glorious week of wandering, reading, drinking, eating and felt like entirely new people by the time that we returned.

A wee bit about the city – it’s the third largest in Spain with a very impressive Metro system that runs all the way from the airport to the old town (Xativa); easy access for holiday makers! There’s loads of Arab influence 6 sided buildings and decorative architecture that show a wealth of multiculturalism over time, soaring old buildings scattered amongst beautiful apartment blocks and little bars and restaurants nestling in between. Cathedrals, churches dedicated to the Virgin and and the centre of the silk trade all understated and impressive at the same time, all within 500 yards of each other. There was a river that ran all round the city, but it flooded in the 50’s so they re routed it and now the river bed has become a wonderful park, a really communal one where you will always see, runners, cyclists, picnickers, dog walkers, and people working out on communal gyms. It gave the city such character and was an amazing place to hang out it. We hired bikes and cycled for miles along it in the sunshine, this was a highlight.  

However, for me one of the most beautiful sights was the Mercat Centrale (Central Market). An entirely different type of building, just as impressive, and inside; the most beautiful collection of food. Huge legs of Jamon Iberico swinging from butchers’ hooks, cheeses that required the merest touch to sink and ooze under the pressure of a finger, and those that were covered in rosemary, huge wheels all snuggled up against one another. Baskets piled high with nuts and seeds, that if it wasn’t so unhygienic you’d plunge your hands straight into. Fresh fish with scales glinting in the sunshine, not a glassy eye or flaky side in sight with little snails still in their shells in pots. Squid being cleaned and gutted by deft, fast knives and prawns the size of your hand staring at you with beady black eyes.

Whole pigs heads and trotters behind glass, the animal eaten from nose to tail and vegetables allowed to grow and grow until they dwarf the petrified excuses we see in British Supermarkets. I was in heaven asking to try little bits of everything, you can really taste the earthiness of something that has simply been allowed to grow. The salty Iberico ham, marbled with fat, beautifully soft and melt in your mouth as you taste the acorns the pig has been raised on. Avocados ripe and delicious, fragrant and juicy heavy with flavour. Even chicken feet find a place amongst this feast. 

 

Calamares Romana is a dish that may well be a contender for my last meal on earth. when they’re lightly battered with a sprinkling of salt and you have the contrast of the crunch of the batter and the soft squid inside there is truly nothing more wonderful on earth. Lemon juice squeezed over the top, providing a sharpness on your tongue… I simply can’t get enough on my fork. The other favourite is patatas bravas, where the humble spud is given a spicy makeover, it can cure hunger pangs in one easy strike! 

This is the king of light snacks. 

Of course it wouldn’t be right to mention Spain and Valencia and not Paella. P hates Paella, can’t get his head round liking it. Or should I say couldn’t. Paella Valencia from a restaurant named El Rall convinced him otherwise. Paella Valencia is made using chicken and rabbit with green beans. It’s amazing. Hearty, filling and flavoursome it fills you right up with that satisfied feeling that only comes with eating really simple, but really wonderful food. 

Finally I must mention buneros. Little doughnuts covered with sugar and dunked in spicy, earthy, hot chocolate. As someone who’s sweet tooth has had to be restrained with a muzzle and leash, not to mention the occasional tazer these are an irresistible treat. Hot and straight from the pan (only get the ones made to order or you end up with something stodgy and stale) these can cheer up the most miserable of souls. 

 

 

I am also giving you this website 

http://smallcollider.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/letter-to-my-sixteen-year-old-self.html by a lovely man who loves food almost as much as me. These are his musings and they’re original, funny and touching. With a couple of rants thrown in. 

Keep eating, and if you have any recipes you recommend please share. I love trying new things!   

 

My God. It doesn’t happen often when you cook something you have A) never tried before, B) using a meat you have never heard of and C) using stuff that’s been hanging around and needs eating and it tastes really nice.

This whole thing can be done in 40 minutes and I managed to fit in some rather urgent typing, some crap telly and Have I Got News For You. Brillo.

Basically this is the story; I try and only buy meet from my local butcher, there are a number reasons for this: it’s fresh, you only pay for what you want, there is a huge variety, I know far more about where it’s come from etc, and the best bit is that when I buy a cut meat I simply don’t know or I’ve never cooked before my lovely butcher (who rather sweetly always calls me madam) explains in detail the best way to cook it, timings and everything.

So as I popped in to buy some Jamaican Jerk sausages and a shoulder of lamb big enough to feed six people, I spied a cut of meat called ONGLET. I asked about it and was told it was a beautiful cut of meat. From the chest cavity it’s often known as HANGAR STEAK or SKIRT STEAK whatever, it tastes amazing. It’s basically largely muscle so has to be marinated and/or cooked over a very high heat and served medium rare or it becomes pretty tough. What a piece of meat though. It was expertly prepared by my lovely butcher, and only needed six minutes (3 either side) to become a fabulously tender piece of meat which almost dissolved under my knife and melted in my mouth.

Ingredients (this is for two so expand as you go)

Onglet – enough for however you need and get your butcher to prepare it for you. I thoroughly doubt you’ll find it elsewhere! 2 potatoes (baking are fine), 2 carrots, 6 cloves of garlic (whole), one onion roughly chopped, rosemary, red/ruby chard.

Method

Preheat oven to 200 degrees

Chop the potatoes into approx two/one cm squares, roughly chop the carrots, and onion, but keep the garlic whole and in it’s…. er for want of a better word, covering. Tear the rosemary keeping it in sprigs. Put it all on a baking tray/in a roasting tin, whatever you have to hand drizzle with olive oil and bung in the oven for 40 mins.

Chill out in the best way you know how.

Then heat oil in pan over a high heat. Seal the meat on both sides before then cooking it on both sides for 3 minutes each.

Put a load of red chard on your plate and dress how you will. I love a bit of balsamic, however anything goes! Place the meat on the red chard and then the potatoes, carrot, onion, garlic and rosemary around it.

Eat. Try not to eat it as quickly as you want to though, you’ll get hiccups. P has given this a rating of 9… 10 being “almost unattainable” I will persevere. Also don’t think that P is simply giving me good scores because he feels he should. Only the best recipes make it on to here!

Apologies for my absence, it will be explained in good time. For now though allow me to wax lyrical about my friend, the garlic bulb. Where I grew up and where my parents still live, wild garlic grows and I have very clear memories of taking the dog for walks and this wonderful scent on the air. It’s so distinctive and we use it so much as a base for flavours in cooking that sometimes we forget just how dense and delicious it is. The smell and taste is something that lingers on fingers and on breath; a nightmare for the discerning lady or gentleman, in fact (a little bit of trivia for you) if you rub a clove of garlic on the sole of your foot you will be able to smell it on your breath about half an hour later. As the ultimate Doubting Thomas, I have tried this and found it to be true! It not only keeps vampires and potential boyfriends at a safe distance, but also fever and colds, stomach upsets and exhaustion. It reenforces your immune system and is pretty foolproof as an essential part of your diet. I use it whole when roasting potatoes or in roasts around the side as it beautifully enhances gravy flavour and are quite simply beautiful when eaten whole. When their juices are running and flesh are soft and can almost be spread over other veg and meat. As was the way this evening; gorgeously fat and juicy cloves of garlic mixing with fragrant and flavoursome tender meat. Pure heaven.

My advice; start being more adventurous in your use/eating of it. Try whole cloves stuffed in olives…Gillies has been known to eat tubs of those in one sitting. Try as tapenade and marinades, crushed and spread on pesto toast for appetizers and best of all roasted in their skins (ah there’s the word!!) and enjoyed with anything.

You’re welcome.